The Case for The Basics: Your Dermatologist

The story started back in mid-April, when I went to the friendly neighborhood dermatologist's office to get myself a facial for the first time. My skin had been bothering me a lot in the last few years, but - healthcare expenses being what they are - I decided that this would be a good time for me to get checked at The Derma.

Right away the assistants knew that something was horribly, terribly wrong with my skin.

The signs of sun damage, while not entirely visible, were manifesting in gross and disgusting ways. My skin was getting rough, and the spots that I thought were sties in my undereye area were, in fact, a manifestation of something more insidious.

I can't go into much detail here, because I know that there are medical terms here in the Philippines that are always questioned Stateside... but I do know that our family has a history of invisible, age-related benign growths that practically have to be burned and/or lasered off before they start spreading all over the body.

That's what prompted me to get an estimate for the procedure from the dermatologist herself, right before I was due to leave for New Zealand. She concluded that the growths have already started spreading around my face, especially in the under-eye area. It wasn't urgent - in fact, she wasn't taking any patients until June - but I knew that I had to have this done when I got back, just so I could get it out of the way.

Finally, I got the "procedure" done yesterday, and... well, details after the jump.

(Warning: The rest of this entry is not for the faint of heart. Proceed to read at your own risk. Also, we do not recommend reading the hot-guy sections of this blog after the jump, for the same about-to-be-obvious reasons.)

The Case for The Basics: Sewing

At first I wanted to ask Santa for one of these:

I'll admit that my sewing jones comes from a combination of weight loss and not missing a single post on New Dress a Day, along with the fact that it's been ages since we had a sewing machine here in the Hacienda.

(And getting a sewing machine here in the Philippines is no joke, either. Everything's a problem: voltage issues, lack of repair centers and spare parts, things like that.)

I was resigned to taking everything I owned to the tailor... but then I remembered that I actually know how to sew by hand, after several years of Home Ec in elementary school. So, with my trusty needle and a very reliable search engine (thank you, Google Chrome), I looked up the best ways to remodel the stuff I already owned with the tools I already have at hand.

Right now I'm trying to brush up on French seams using a top that has been practically falling off me, and probably needed to be remodeled anyway. It's still an ongoing project, but I'll make sure to have it up as soon as I've fixed everything.

In the meantime, here are links to some of the sewing books that I've liked in the past; some of them should be available at your local public library, and a few of them actually use techniques for hand-stitching in the absence of an actual sewing machine. It's also interesting to note that some of the best sewing projects I've done have been made with old T-shirts, which practically guarantees a never-ending source of material to play with when you get started.

The Case for The Basics: Skincare

Above: Skincare according to Jessica Harlow. (For reference, JH has dry skin and acne.)

Here's a dirty secret that I've been reluctant to share lately: I'm one of those beauty bloggers who have contracted the habit of not wearing that much makeup every single day.

My laziness when it comes to wearing the stuff is a combination of several factors, including but not limited to rushed mornings and extreme humidity. The only thing worse than being a makeup slacker, however, is the fact that I'm also a skincare slacker.

Yikes.

There's a lot of hubris to blame for that last part. For the last decade or so, I've been told that I have the kind of skin problems that most people wish they had: smooth skin, no pimples, the occasional under-eye circle or two. Even after I turned 30, I still receive scads of comments from folks who refuse to believe that I've aged a day past 21. (Okay, 15 at the earliest.)

Did I also mention that my skin can be very sensitive sometimes - acting OK with a specific product at first, and then freaking out on the next instance? Yep, it's that crazy.

And now that I'm also losing weight from my face as well, I've decided that I have to put a stop to all this madness and start taking care of my skin again, once and for all.

Here's what my course of action looks like right now - and remember, I have purchased all of these products on my own, without any promotional considerations from the manufacturers themselves...

- Face wash: Pond's Perfect Care (available at the supermarket)
- Serum: Garnier Nutritioniste Skin Renew Daily Regenerating Serum, applied on bare skin
- Moisturizer: Pond's Age Miracle, applied on top of the serum. Usually I put on the Overnight Treatment, but sometimes I would put on the Daily Resurfacing SPF15 cream (during the daytime, natch) because I've found that the sunblock ingredients in that one do a good job of keeping the humidity in check.

(Side note: Yes, I understand that the above products are not organic and natural and stuff, but you have to understand that I really am that much of a skincare slacker, and as such I am rarely obligated to use anything that has no preservatives in them. That is, unless you consider the product that I am going to mention next...)  

- Eyes: Human Nature Sunflower Seed Beauty Oil. Yes, it's an oil - and therefore not a product that can work as a bottom layer for makeup - but I have yet to see an eye treatment work this well when it comes to both under-eye circles and overall puffiness. One application actually makes my eyes look less tired from the day before, so it's a good counter-offensive for sleepless nights and dry air. For what it's worth, I also use this on other dry parts of my face, especially during the days when my skin looks like hell.

- Spot treatment: Sometimes I use tea-tree oil, and sometimes I use a spot treatment if the zits are especially bad. Pimples have been few and far between so far, though.

- Others: I try to chill out as much as possible with a face mask every week. If I'm especially cranky, I might even fool around with a scrub (like this) and then follow it up straight with a moisturizer... but that's just here and there along the way.

This skincare routine, along with the diet and exercise, is a way for me to establish a routine, which in turn would bring me closer to putting things in order for the rest of my life. If I can do this, I'll be one step closer to bringing the sanity back into my life... and that's not something I can put off any longer.

The Case for the Basics: Soap and Other Cleansing Bars (Now with 100% More Dingdong!)

Before I begin this entry, here's one major reason why I can't stand Dingdong Dantes:

I kid you not - you are looking at a grown man who models underwear and still calls himself DINGDONG. That's all I'm going to say on the matter.

Anyway, one of the few things that made Mr. Jose Sixto Dantes III less annoying for me came from a recent interview where he said that his biggest pet peeve was going into a public restroom and finding - gack - an empty soap dispenser. As someone for whom restroom soap is a major deal-breaker, I can say that I totally sympathized with him, right then and there.

But it did get me thinking about my feelings on soap, cleansing bars, and body washes in general.

Beyond The Basics: Nude Lipstick

Here's a question for you: Why is it that, as soon as I find the perfect nude lipstick, I suddenly find that it's being phased out?

It happened last year with Max Factor's Vivid Impact Lipstick in Vegas, Baby...

...and it's happening again this year with BeneFit's Full Finish Lipstick in Lady's Choice, which I discovered via the Celebutante set.

Best. Nude. EVER. by meimei96 on Polyvore.com

(Disclaimer: I have no idea if BeneFit is really discontinuing this; I just happened to find out from Makeup and Beauty Blog that it's being sold for 50% off under the BeneFit site's"buh-buys" section. Still and all, though: WAAAHHH!)

Seriously, people, it's not easy to find the perfect nude lipstick anywhere... short of wearing dark concealer on my lips and applying stuff over that, which is ultimately impractical for my schedule. What I liked about both the Max Factor and BeneFit ones is that they both had a hint of peachy-pink undertone, which not only flattered my existing skin tone but ultimately made everything else I wore on my face look much, much better.

The other thing that makes this situation more of a bummer for me is the fact that I don't live anywhere near a Sephora right now. I could, of course, save up for my next trip to Manila... which means that I'll have to check the nearest counters for Max Factor and other mid-range/ high-street brands (ie. Maybelline, L'Oreal, Face Shop, Body Shop, etc.) before shelling out for the big guns at the likes of MAC and Shiseido. I could also go the Avon-lady route, which could at least save me money for gas.

So, readers, I'm opening this discussion up with you now: Where should I get my next nude? Which brands should I try? Leave me a message in the comments!

The Case for the Basics: Your Basic Grooming Routine

Photo from tianlui.fengshui.com.

Like many Filipinos, I've been culturally conditioned to keep my appearance as neat and presentable as possible. Years of college and living away from my parents has done nothing to undo that conditioning; up to now I still can't leave the house without a quick mirror check and a once-over with a brush.

The older I get, though, the more I tend to settle for "presentable" rather than "chic." And I'm not alone here; for every woman that leaves the house with a "full face," there are probably 7 more whose schedules are so hectic that taking time for makeup is Just Not an Option.

Since I'm a stickler for starting with the basics, I recommend going through this checklist every single morning, or at least before you pick up a single makeup brush. The rules are not hard and fast - heck, I'm guilty of not doing all of this - but trust me, just one tweak will make your life so much easier.

• Do you take good care of your skin? Every makeup artist will tell you that even the best makeup is worth nothing without a good canvas. I've written about the Clinique 3-step system in the past, because it boils down every person's skincare routine into three basic concepts: cleansing, exfoliating, and moisturizing. It doesn't matter how you do it, or when, as long as your skin remains clear and healthy. Same goes for the rest of your body, too; no matter how my day goes, I never step into the shower without shampoo and a Salux washcloth for my body wash of choice... and that makes all the difference.
  
  
• Do you brush and floss? Laugh if you must, but even the best lipstick can't hide a mouth that hasn't seen the business end of a toothbrush. And it doesn't have to be the most expensive toothbrush, either - though it does matter if your brush can clean your teeth without your soft palate getting poked every so often. Toothpaste, same deal. As for floss, I can get pretty fastidious about it because I hate the thought of anything getting stuck between my teeth, and I'd rather have a good day at the dentist than a lifetime of bleeding gums.
  
  
• Do you groom your brows? As my senior yearbook picture shows, your eyebrows can be a deal-breaker for any look. Here's a little tutorial from Seventeen magazine to get you started... but try not to pluck too much, so you won't look Botoxed.
  

I'll have more to say about showering, exfoliating, and eyebrow grooming in the coming days... but, really, if you've answered "yes" to any of these questions above, you're practically ahead of the game.

The Case for the Basics: CITIZENSHIP

Forgive me for exchanging my makeup kit for a soapbox right now, but I must.

It has been a week since the death of Corazon Aquino, and two days since we finally laid her to rest. We have cried the tears, and wiped them dry (to paraphrase the words of Anne Murray), and some of us are still devastated for losing such a gracious woman.

The questions are still inevitable: What next, then? What's the best way to honor the Aquino legacy?

For inspiration, I have to hand it to another former Head of State - Mr. Jimmy Carter, in the opening remarks of his Farewell Address to the American people in 1981 - to voice this opinion better than I can.

...I will lay down my official responsibilities in this office -- to take up once more the only title in our democracy superior to that of president, the title of citizen.

Now, a few of you here - regardless of where you are in the world - will be reading this and thinking that there are powerful ways, honest ways, of exercising your citizenship. Some of you are probably thinking about taking the streets like we Filipinos did during the original EDSA Revolution in 1986. Some of you believe in becoming the squeaky wheel that gets the grease, by thinking that raising your voice will bring about the change you want and deserve in this lifetime.

You know what? That is very well and good. That is your opinion, and for as long as this blog remains unblocked and uncensored, I will not prevent you from exercising your right to do so. That does not mean, however, that yours is the only choice.

For the rest of us who are not yet called to act as squeaky wheels, I have a very simple but honest solution.

Yes, VOTING.

Voting isn't sexy, and it certainly is never fun. Voting in a national election is never going to be as exciting as voting for your next American Idol. Voting, however, does make you a smarter person for choosing your own leaders, as part of your own right to freedom under your citizenship.

"But Meimei," you tell me, "I don't want to vote! Nobody I like ever wins, and everyone who's running is so meh to me! It's all rigged anyway, and everyone cheats!"

Well, let me tell you a thing or two about civic duty.

I may have been a child back in 1986 - heck, I was only in kindergarten when Ninoy Aquino's assassination interrupted my after-school cartoons - but that didn't mean I knew nothing about what was happening around me. I didn't like what the creepy old guy with lupus and his weaselly minions were doing to my innocence, and everyone else's; it wasn't that hard to see how other people's daddies weren't coming home, knowing that bad things happened to people who disagreed with the government.

I didn't know from policy, and I certainly didn't end up marching on the streets... but my siblings and I already knew that our hope was with the little lady in the yellow dress, the widow of the white-suited man who died on the tarmac. Reconciliation, democracy, peace: those were the big words of the day in 1986, and we took it all to heart.

Say what you will about the Aquino years, but at least we, as a nation, were able to breathe - able to speak our minds and hold our leaders accountable to their words and actions, after so many years of martial law. We, the people, had a president who trusted our judgment, without insulting our intelligence. For once, we had dignity.

Flash forward twelve years later, to the sight of an increasingly jaded Meimei, now an adult in Honolulu. Nothing at this point was going to comfort me - not the budget cuts made by our Republican governor, nor the growing economic crisis in the midst, nor the endless chatter from both sides of the proverbial aisle. It was dawning on me that there were one too many dead soldiers in the news, one too many companies going out of business, one too many warnings about the environment.

(I could go on and on, but my blood pressure is rising... so let's just say that anyone who knew me during this period of my life - the ones who really knew me - would know the real depth of my anger here. This is a wound that, sadly, has yet to heal.)

Again, I was not in a position of power, since I was not an American citizen. And I'm obviously not one of those people who thinks that Barack Obama can do no wrong, because there are times when I do disagree with him.

That did not stop me from feeling so much pride and joy for my fellow kama`aina, and the people who turned out in droves to support his journey to the White House.

Suddenly even the most apolitical and disenfranchised among my friends were registering to vote and following the news. Suddenly there were bigger discussions about history and precedence, and what it truly means to be a citizen of one's country. Suddenly those memories of the 2000 election - which Scribey and I watched in a drunken stupor years before - had become too painful, too uncomfortable.

In the fall of 2008, I found myself witnessing - again - a revolution of sorts, waged not with guns and threats and intimidation, but with ballots and Twitters and cold reckoning. It certainly felt like 1986 again, or at least it did to me.

And I, for one, was truly glad.

Of all the lessons that I had learned between 1986 and 2008, this stuck out to me the most: You cannot challenge an election that had none of your participation.

I may not have voted during those times, but I felt that I had to do something about my world - and writing my little letters-to-TPTB meant nothing if I only had my opinion to back me up. I may have been a "citizen of the world," but the Obama campaign taught me that real citizenship and civic duty meant taking responsibility for any decision that leads to change. My vote, after all, was my leverage as a citizen - leverage that I can wield, not just to support my leader, but to hold my own government accountable for any mistakes made in leadership... regardless of who wins, or whoever rises to power eventually.

I already know, moving back to the Philippines, that corruption is widespread. I already know that, if the presidential election does take place in 2010, there will be a lot of cloak-and-dagger machinations that will prevent me from electing my choice of leaders. That is why I decided, after so many years, to finally register myself as an honest-to-goodness Voter, starting with this coming presidential election. Now that I am a Philippine resident once again, I now must use my right and my leverage, as a citizen of the Republic, to make this election happen - not just for me, but for my whole country.

You think the government will cancel the elections? The heck they will - if there are not enough voters who have registered in the first place. You think that your candidate will never win? Guess again: Whoever ends up being in charge will STILL remain accountable to ordinary people like you and me.

And here's another thing: our taxes, after all, are what still pays for their plans, good or bad. I don't care who you vote, or how you go about it... but you do want to know where your money goes after the taxman comes to get it, right? Really, if we all voted with our wallets alone, we would all be charged with tax evasion in some form or another by now. Fact, plain and simple.

So please, for the love of sweet mangoes, don't ever, EVER think for a minute that your vote will never count, even if - and especially if - somebody else ends up choosing your leaders for you. By refusing to exercise your own capacity for democracy, you are committing the ultimate act of elitism, selfishness, vanity, and greed.

Philippine citizens, your last day for voter registration is on December 15, 2009, and voters for the US primaries in 2010 should be registered by May of that very year; everyone else with elections forthcoming should start consulting your local government offices ASAP. Don't even think for a moment that living overseas will keep you away from the ballot box, either - that's what absentee voting is for, and you must contact your nearest embassy or consulate for details on how to do just that.

Think about it, read about it, pray about it - do what you can, because I can't make your mind up for you. But whatever you do, don't ever think that you will never count at all as a citizen.

Whatever you need to do, do it now - because there won't be a revolution without you.

The Case for the Basics: Personal Style

Easygoing by meimei96

Never mind the prices or the brands; let's talk about the setup.

If you like the window shopping more than the actual buying-of-stuff - and in this economy, who wouldn't? - do as SisMei and I have done by checking into Polyvore and creating your own "inspiration board" for fashion and interior design, in super-handy JPEG form. I, for one, can't even begin to tell you how supercool this is, because it makes you feel like you're creating your own fashion spread!

That said: My first Polyvore set, as you can see here, is basically a capsule summation of my style. And the one message that stands out the most about this set?

Inconspicuous luxury.

I wouldn't be surprised if the most expensive items in my set are the Anna Scholz dress and the super-hot Stuart Weitzman peeptoes, but that's the thing - I'd rather spend on quality rather than quantity. On the other hand, however, there is a lack of label-consciousness, as well.

For me, it's a flat-out safety issue - even a place like Hawaii has its own fair share of purse-snatchers and wallet-stealers, so I'd rather take my chances on an inexpensive but practical canvas bag than a gorgeous but hefty Louis Vuitton purse that practically screams "STEAL ME."

(Not that I don't love me some Vuitton, either; in a just world, I would be carrying LV's Mahina XL bag with no shame whatsoever. But anyone who has ever carried a fine purse - even one from Aldo or Nine West, which qualifies as a "luxury item" in the Meimei household - would know exactly what I'm talking about here.)

And it's not just the purse snatchers, mind you. Part of my aversion to labels has a lot to do with the class issues I've dealt with since childhood; there's nothing enjoyable, to me, about speculating how much a person has spent on a bag, or a pair of shoes. Even something as simple as a manicure can lead absolute strangers to making certain conclusions about your net worth.

I honestly think that envy is a sin that leads to more treacherous behavior - jealousy, after all, is what drives people to think that they can get away with stealing lives and possessions just because "those rich people don't need it anymore."

But just because I hate designer labels doesn't mean that I can wear any schlumpy thing that I want, any time and anywhere. Oh, no, no, no. I still believe that dressing well is a form of respect; otherwise, why should others respect you if you look like you don't respect yourself?

Look at the detailing on those Michael Kors shirts in the picture; those tiny bits of bling are nice, but they don't detract from the comfortable cut and fabric. Ditto with the prints on the dress, and the ribbing on the cardigan. The jeans are there because they are cut in the way that makes the most of my back view without the need for any additional faffery in the front, or anywhere else. (Do you hear me, True Religion?) I love the criss-cross straps on the brown flats, which take an otherwise basic and comfortable shoe to a whole new level. I love that the bag has a nice, slouchy shape - the better to fit my usual gear in - in a soft, workable material that won't chafe my arms (or my clothes) if I carry it around every day. And, of course, a good red lipstick to pull everything together, without bleeding onto my teeth - doesn't have to be Nars per se, but you get the gist of it.

Point being: This is my style.

When I walk into a room, I don't want people to make comments about how much money I've spent on my clothes, or how much time I spent on my makeup. I want them to see me, for what I'm worth... and if I happen to be wearing something that looks more expensive than it really is, that's just icing on the cake.

Some of you may be looking at this and saying, But I have no style. Well, I obviously didn't come out of the womb with impeccable taste, either; all of that just came to me after 30+ years of trial, error, observation, and moments of hard reckoning during the times when the rest of my life have come into question. I won't say it's too late to start the journey, though.

Pay attention to the changes in your body, the changes in weather, the life that you live. (This is especially true for anyone whose professions require machine-washable clothes.) Clip out pictures that you like from magazines. Test your concept of style on sites like Polyvore and Taaz to see how it all fits. Ask yourself, many times: What draws me to this? Maybe it's not the outfit, but the mood, the atmosphere, the attitude. Remember that you are meant to own your wardrobe, but your wardrobe is not meant to own you. (Or pwn you, as SisMei's kids would say.)

Above all, be absolutely honest with yourself. Not brutal, not judgmental, but honest in a loving way. Maybe there are things that you do need to let go; think wisely, and soon you will find more room for the new.

The Case for the Basics: Moving Essentials, Part 1

- USPS flat rate boxes and envelopes: Practically free from your local post office, and can be used for both domestic and international shipping. The trick here is to get the packaging routine down: For boxes, make sure to double-tape the bottom (aka the flaps that don't have the to/from address labels) - first layer should go 2/3 of the way over the "box crack" (aka the gap between the two top flaps) towards one side, and second layer goes 2/3 of the way over the second side - that way, the bottom is doubly insulated. You don't have to tape down the sides all the way, but go ahead if you think it helps. The envelopes, on the other hand, are great for sending small items like books, baby hats (aherm) and DVDs... but if you must use those bubble-mailer envelopes, I suggest wrapping your item in the bubble mailer before putting it in the Flat Rate envelope. You'll be surprised by how much postage you'll save with Flat Rate.

Tree-hugger bonus: Most Flat Rate boxes have "cradle to cradle" certification, which makes them easily recyclable without affecting your carbon footprint.

-Good packing tape. In my previous life as a storage clerk, I was armed with heavy duty tape rollers with super reinforcement... but at home, my weapon of choice is Duck EZ Start, which you can get at Wal-Mart for a very reasonable price. It doesn't gum up on the dispenser like the other brands of tape, which makes putting boxes together a snap... plus it's easy to smooth over mistakes. And when you're preparing your fine dinner plates for the give-away pile, just wrap your packing tape around them in an X pattern to keep them together - that makes selling and donating much easier.

- Reclosable/ Ziploc bags. True, it's a great way to keep your makeup and potions together (o hai, fellow bloggers!), but the power of the Ziploc(TM) knows no bounds! I use them for sneaking tea bags or instant cocoa packets into my carry-on, and for keeping my prescription meds together. I even used a gallon storage bag to put together my inflight crafting kit: baby yarn, a lucite crochet hook, and a free pattern.

- Your rattiest casual clothes: You'll be sweating through the nitty-gritty of boxes and suitcases anyway. Pack your finest outfits first to get them out of the way; you'll have time to wear them once you get them organized at your final destination.

- A box of rags: Seriously, you don't need those old T-shirts with the bleach stains and gigantic holes in them, do you? Put them out of their misery by cutting the seams out and and using them instead of paper towels around the house. Bonus points if those clothes belong to your ex, which instantly bestows magic cleaning powers.

-Antihistamines and a dust mask: If you're a pack rat with allergies like me, this just goes without saying.

The Case for the Basics: The Boar Bristle Brush*

So you may be wondering what the big deal is about the boar bristle brush. You may be asking questions like "Why do stylists insist that I use one?" and "Do I really have to get a Mason Pearson, or at least a Denman?" Believe me, I had to ask those same questions too before I got my brush... and now that I have one, I couldn't be happier.

Now, before you ask me where and how I got my hands on such a shmancy brush, let me disclose here that my brush is nothing like those brand-name ones that the big-name stylists like to brandish at photo shoots. Those brushes will, indeed, cost you for their craftmanship; they're built to last for decades, and are meant to use for both grooming and styling... but they're definitely not for everyone. (Especially not Mason Pearson -- even its "pocket" model is way too much brush for somebody of my stature.) That's why I had to put the asterisk (*) in the title of this entry: If you have wavy or curly hair, you would be able get away with using a stylist-level brush that has the right combination of boar and nylon bristles to help you style your hair as you desire, with or without destroying your natural curl pattern.

That said, if you have board-flat, baby-fine hair like I do, an all-boar bristle brush may very well do the trick.

I say this because my current brush of choice is a $3 all-boar wood-set paddle brush that I bought at Walgreen's. (You can view similar-looking brushes here and here, for slightly more coin.) Before I bought this I was getting tired of the cheap plastic brushes that I have been using on my hair; they were OK with the detangling, but my scalp - and my hair - felt like it was being poked; for all they were worth, I might as well have been styling my hair with a garden rake.

Not so with the boar bristle brushes. For one thing, boar bristles are, of course, made of boar hair - and unlike a plastic or nylon bristle, which is structurally flat on the surface, boar hair has scales that can pick up and redistribute natural scalp oils when used to style or brush through human hair. This concept of redistribution explains several things that I've noticed since I started using the boar brush:

• The incredible amount shine that I've noticed on the surface of my hair;
• The ability of said hair to not only change from a middle to a side part, but to maintain said side part (and/or any other brush-related styling direction) for hours on end;
• The constant, well-conditioned softness throughout every strand; and
• The ability to maintain actual volume on top of the aforementioned shine and softness.

In other words, my boar bristle brush has turned my hair into the living embodiment of a shampoo commercial, without the post-production CGI.

As for the purported scalp-massaging properties of boar bristles, here's my take on the phenomenon: I've noticed that, after several uses, the boar bristles on my brush have been showing signs of splitting and fraying... and while some may take that as a sign of less-than-optimum quality, I say that the frayed ends actually make the brush better and softer, not only in picking up individual hairs from the scalp but also in exfoliating the scalp itself by picking up dead skin cells and other kinds of grunge - thus boosting circulation to the scalp and follicles. That means, when you use a boar-bristle brush on your hair, you're not just raking an instrument up and down your scalp; you're actually sweeping hair and grunge off your scalp with thousands of tiny little brooms, all while redistributing oils down the hair shaft. Who needs a ton of products and hair styling appliances when you can just brush your own hair?

Now, I have to remind you that - as with any brush with fine, tightly-packed bristles - using a boar bristle brush on wet hair is a DON'T: it may be softer and kinder, but it's still a brush, and thus just as likely to rip up weak, wet hair strands. Cleanup is also no joke: I can't wash my brush in the sink because the base is made out of pure wood, so I have to basically clean it by picking out hair strands with a nail file and shaking out the accumulated grunge over a trash can. (Gross.) Sometimes I even spray the brush with a ittle MAC Brush Cleaner to disinfect, too. But, to be honest, it really is worth the trouble; all I have to do is check my hair out in the mirror.

The Case for the Basics: Shoe Repair, Alterations, and Other Lost Arts

All three pairs of shoes were purchased at roughly the same time two years ago.

Shoe #1 (top left): Rust colored kitten-heel spectator pumps, purchased in Manila for US$13. Repaired for US$9 at a shoe repair shop on Pensacola Street after the rubber on the heels got scuffed badly, plus $4 for the new insoles.

Shoe #2: (right): Wood slides from Rustan's in Manila, purchased for roughly US$10. Repaired for $18.25 at Tam's Shoe Repair in Kaimuki after the rubber on both outsole and heel were badly damaged; by the time I brought it to the repair shop, the soles looked like melting asphalt. Extent of repair: Replaced original smooth rubber with more weatherproof treads. (This isn't the first time I brought shoes to Tam's, either; I always bring my wood shoes to them.)

Shoe #3 (bottom left): Faux-suede faux-Chucks from Airwalk for Payless, purchased on sale at $9. Repaired rubber outsole for $6 at K's Shoe Repair on Keeaumoku street.

Total repairs for all three: $23.25 - roughly the sale price of another pair of shoes from Nordstrom Rack after deep discounts.

****

Here's the thing: We're living in interesting times right now, when the economy is at an all time low and consumer goods are at their most disposable. On the one hand, we could justify expensive buys by paying for good artisanship in the first place... but where does that leave the actual artisans who are already working locally?

As a city, Honolulu is no stranger to the concept of shoe cobblers; tons of Manolos and Cole Haans have passed through back-alley shops for much-needed repairs, sometimes with the secrecy reserved for off-shore plastic surgeons. Not that many of their owners will admit to that in the first place, but let's not kid ourselves about this city; it's not just the weather and the economy that have made this place unsuitable for the fine shoes favored by the power elite.

And I'll admit that I'm working with an almost-Third World mentality here by taking my shoes to cobblers when I should be buying new ones in the first place. The thought of throwing away perfectly wearable shoes is horrible for me; only if I was at risk of injuring myself (ie. slipping or spraining an ankle) would I definitely consider bagging them and putting them away. Part of this mentality also comes from my parents, whose collective taste in fine Italian leather goods have pushed me towards choosing styles that are classic and practical at the same time; those much-loved Bally boots and cork platforms would never have survived being in the same house with three kids without the help of a crafty repairman or two.

The same deal holds true for clothes, too. I know that fashion experts always talk about tailoring and alteration to get the perfect fit, but I'll bet you that the great majority of shoppers would rather get something that fits great off the rack. Good luck to that, I say; as a short person of bountiful curves, even my best-fitting pairs of jeans have gone under the knife (or the shears) to keep me from tripping and trailing over my hems. It's not even a complicated process to begin with, either; we're talking about a starting rate of $8 for hemming and $5 for replacing buttons. And now that I've lost some weight, I'm ready to have more of my pants taken in so I won't be walking around adjusting my belt every 0.5 seconds. True, I could've bought a new pair with all the money I'm spending on tailoring - but that's still money well spent when you consider how it's all going to fit in the end.

Moral of the story: Support local business by finding the nearest cobbler for your shoes and a tailor/seamstress for your clothes. Your wardrobe will thank you.

The 200th Post: Domesticity's Basic Party Essentials

Video: "Faster Kill Pussycat" by Paul Oakenfold featuring Brittany Murphy... yes, folks, THAT Brittany Murphy! I know! Didn't see that coming either!

I recently gave a black vintage Nine West purse to Evie, who is in the Philippines right now working as an event planner for rock concerts and major special events. I packed her bag with what I felt were some serious essentials for an experienced girl-about-town like her: lipstick (Revlon Colorstay Soft and Smooth in Fabulous Fig), mints (from Sephora), and a “little black book” (actually a tiny black notebook from Old Navy – perfect for those rock-star phone numbers!) I think it’s so perfect for her, since the bag is small enough to carry everything she needs and the strap is long enough to sling right across her shoulder. Plus, hey, it’s black.

“Remember,” I told her, “a sassy girl always can always use a Sassy Bag.”

I don’t exactly have a “Sassy Bag” of choice right now – not because my clubbing days are over (far from it, folks!) but I’ve got the kind of life that can never fit inside just about any old designer purse. The closest I have to a “Sassy Bag,” come to think of it, is my beloved hot pink fake-ostrich fake-baguette, which I purchased at Payless for dirt cheap – it’s one of those bags that can go from church to dinner to dancing without looking too heavy. Otherwise, my life is one endless assortment of leather laptop bags, midsize knit purses, and the occasional backpack.

In honor of Evie’s new Sassy Bag, I bring to you a list of purse essentials for occasional - but seasoned - social butterflies like us:

• A tin of multipurpose balm, like Smith’s Rosebud Salve or L’Occitane Shea Butter, to take care of even the most basic chapping on the lips and nails
• Pressed powder (in a mirrored compact) and blotting papers, to keep your face shine-free
• Lipstick or gloss, just because (easier to take around than eye makeup)
• A tinier-than-purse-size container of fragrance
• A ponytail elastic and/or extra bobby pins, for those hair mishaps when you wear your hair long
• The tiniest camera that you can fit in
• Mints, because you never know who you might meet
• Band-Aids, for the unavoidable booboo
• A pen for the little black book
• Big sunglasses, in case you don’t get out of the club till sunrise

Of course, not too long after I gave the sassy bag to Evie she asked me for suggestions on how to take care of her eyes, which were inevitably puffy and dark from all the late nights - not just from the concerts and bar gigs, but also from typing out scripts and poring over contracts. (Take it from somebody who used to be in the biz - this job is not THAT glamorous, people.) So for Christmas I got her a tube of eye cream, along with the old trick of putting cold, soaked Lipton black tea bags over closed eyes (which has worked wonders for me whenever I pull my all-nighters). The trick is to keep the tea bags cold in the fridge - I usually save them after I've made my daily cuppa - and put them over the eyes, then following up with the eye cream to keep them from drying out.

The Case for the Basics: Red Lipstick, Part II

Okay, so the jacket is fug-worthy, but I just had to post this picture of Shohreh Agdashloo - whom Spirit Fingers dubs "The Iranian Catherine Zeta-Jones (without the grandpa-husband)" - to illustrate how red lipstick works for those of us with dark hair and dusky skin. From this picture you can see that the red is a bit on the brownish side - not too dark to wash her out, not too blue so as to clash with the skin tone, and not too orangey so as to age her.

In real life, however, it is difficult to find a very complimentary red lipstick without having to try so many others that, well, aren't. Take it from someone who used to wear her makeup like Robert Smith: You don't want to look like the living dead with red lips of any kind. Nor would you want to look like a cartoon character, a porn star, or a frequent shopper at Hot Topic. (No offense to any cartoon characters, porn stars, and/or Hot Topic shoppers in the audience.)

I stumbled upon the secret to wearing red lipstick not too long after I got my first tube: You have to start with a neutral lip pencil, to outline the natural shape and then fill in the lips completely as a base. Once you do that, it doesn't matter if you put it on with your finger, a brush, or straight from the tube, as long as you use a light touch. Make sure to stay inside the pencil lines and blot after every coat with a tissue, to make the color stick. You don't even have to powder on top of it, unless you want your lips to pucker and hurt after a few minutes.

So, on to the recs:

High end: Seriously, if you want a very good red lipstick, you might as well spend good money for it - which is why I am very (almost insanely) partial to MAC. My current red, in fact, isn't even a real "red" - it's MAC Underworld, which is more of a dark brownish burgundy. Another great high-end option that I've tried is Fresh's Rouge Catalan, which I wore in my last few years of college. And though I've yet to own any lipstick from this brand, I think Nars has a great selection; in fact, I believe that Nars Congo Red and Shanghai Express are the most beautiful red lipsticks, ever, and the matte formulations are the least bit drying. High-end brands are also a good place to look for long-lasting formulations, and Smashbox makes a really nice one in lovely shades of red.

Discount: Of course, if you can't spring for the pricey stuff, your next best bet would be the Sephora Collection - the formulations are just as nice as the others, for less cash. But if your shopping preferences and budget lean more towards the drugstore side of things, you might as well shop judiciously - and stick to the traditional lipsticks rather than the long-wear ones, which tend to be more drying and atrocious in texture. (And, no, I have yet to try out the newer formulations - I'll have to tell you those horror stories later.) For this reason, I love, love, love Maybelline Moisture Extreme - the range of red shades alone is not only impressive, but wildly flattering to any skin tone and mood. (Hello, Toasted Almond and Red Dawn!) The newest versions of Revlon Super Lustrous lipstick are also beautiful - not for nothing does Julianne Moore sport their red shades in the ads, because it does stay creamy and lush for hours. Finally, if you must: The NYC line (in your better drugstores) has a few but fabulous red shades that last as long and stays as nice as the other brands.

Go-withs: Attitude, of course- no use wearing it if you're going to scowl for hours. Also, unless you want to look like a particularly scary office lady, skip the pale matte powder and the harsh black liquid liner all around your eyes. The lips look best with fresh skin - a dewy liquid or mineral foundation would work - and a slightly shimmery blush or bronzer that matches your natural flush. I've also found that neutral but shimmery shadows in the bronze/taupe/champagne range will balance out the lips to avoid the Goth-girl effect. Lashes must also be full but natural; wear falsies if you must, but you'd just be as good to go with a non-fiber-formulated curling/volumizing mascara.

The Case for the Basics: Red Lipstick

So here it is: the long-awaited 100th post. After this, I will post a few lipstick recommendations that have worked for me. Enjoy!

If you want me to explain why I consider red lipstick as a “Basic” - on par with mascara and a good bra - consider the fact that I've been wearing the stuff for more than 15 years now. Consider the fact that, before I discovered that I could wear red lipstick, all I had to practice on were the namby-pamby pinks, mauves, and corals that my Mom used to tote around - which, with my dark hair and tan skin, only made me look more washed-out.

I don't know what started my affair with red, but all I know was that I got my first tube - a “neutral,” true red from Cover Girl that was neither too yellow nor too blue - back when I was in eighth grade, during what I considered to be one of the most confusing moments in my life. Red lipstick with a powdered face and not much eye makeup was as much as I could get away with under my parents' watch - and for good reason, since the red went so well with my complexion and hair color at that time. By ninth grade I had given up my retainers in favor of red lipstick and dangling earrings, which I thought were as good as it got.

Then there was my senior yearbook photo: By this time the lipstick was a brown-based red from Max Factor, worn with pasty foundation and badly-blended neutral eye makeup. I look at that photo and cringe now - man, what I would have given to let Kevyn Aucoin do my makeup - and yet everyone who has seen it can swear that the red lipstick made me look more like a movie star.

For me - then and now - red lips are more than just the usual cliched symbol of sex and power. I don't wear them the way I used to when I was younger, all bright and matte with the winged eyeliner and pale face, but when I do, it's always a reflection of who I am at the moment and how confident and defiant I can be. When I started wearing it I could have been emulating any other lipsticked icon of the day - Bettie Page, Madonna, Robert Smith - and still getting away with being cool. Now, as I get older (and a little closer to 30), the red lipstick makes more of an individual statement on me, even when I don't have to say much of anything.

Case in point: There was a moment last year when I didn't wear any red lipstick because I had people at my church making comments about my makeup and giving unsolicited advice on practically everything I do. (Friends, this is what happens when you are an unmarried Christian woman in your 20s and you find yourself accountable to the wrong parties.) I am glad to let you know, however, that I do not listen to these people any more, thanks to a recent video slide-show presentation which included several shots of me wearing - what else - a lovely dark red lipstick with a bit of shimmer, which made my friends gasp at how good I looked on the jumbo screen.

(Come to think of it, I also tend to go for creamier brownish or berry reds instead of straight-up matte red, or even the glossy pin-up red that I used to wear back in the day.)

The red lipstick isn't just for the first date, but for the rough day at work, the all-day conference, and any occasion that warrants running into people you can't stand for good reason. The red lipstick stands for confidence and competence, for finding yourself and standing your ground. The red lipstick says, “Back off, I'm a grown-up now, and I will not stand for your petty foolishness.”

Edited 3/31: Hello to the folks reading this post from the link on BeautyAddict - and thank you Kristen for the shout-out! Also edited because my math skills have failed me by miscalculating MY OWN AGE to make me look OLDER. For the record, there's no way I could have been in "eighth grade" when I was nine years old!

The Case for the Basics: Lip Balm

Look here, folks: We could talk about Arrested Development getting cancelled and how it's the end of the world as we know it... or we can concentrate on the bigger picture and move on to the other things. Me, I'm not in the mood to take anything or anyone too seriously, so I'd like to go with something frivolous and non-confrontational for a change.

Take lip balm, for example. Now, there's a topic that we can agree on, right? Everyone can use some lip balm, especially now with the colder weather. (And don't look at me and tell me that we don't have cold weather here; the cold winds we always have here in the valley have a way of drying out a girl's skin, I tell you.)

I always insist on having lip balm on hand to keep my lips soft and moist. When I don't wear lip balm, it hurts more to talk - let alone smile - and that can only make me even more of a sour apple when I'm already in a grumpy mood. (This I learned after I got off the chair at the UH Dental Hygiene department after a cleaning - and realized that my lips had dried out from being propped open for three hours straight.)

There's always a lip balm for every occasion. Here are my favorites:

For the plane ride: A petrolatum-based balm will go on smooth in extreme dehydration. Kiehl's #1 Balm is the first thing that comes to mind; I took this with me on my first trip to Israel and it kept my lips sane even in the insane desert weather. Multitaskers like Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream and Smith's Rosebud Salve can double as a moisturizer or highlighter if you're not up to wearing any makeup during your flight. And if your lips really do get chapped to the extreme, there's also Blistex (the original formula in the tube) to keep it from hurting further; my Dad started using this after seeing me dab the stuff on whenever we travel.

For the hike: Whether you're negotiating some serious waterfalls or just going up the hill to your next class, you will need a balm with sunscreen. The classic, of course, is ChapStick Lip Moisturizer SPF 15 - not too pricey, not too waxy, very soothing and has that slight vanilla-y scent to boot. A more appealing choice would be the new flavored balms from the new ONBody line at Old Navy - I have the White Chocolate + Orange balm and I love both the texture and the flavor, which reminds me of expensive Italian cookies.

For your hot date: Flavored is definitely the way to go on this one - and unless said hot date is a rugged, outdoorsy type, you could probably get away with using one that does not have sunscreen. Lush, for example, has flavored plant-butter-based lip balms with names like Whipstick, Honey Trap and EggSnog (just in time for Thanksgiving!), while those more inclined towards fruitiness and softer balms - not to mention more frequent kissing - may find The Body Shop's Born Lippy balms more to their liking. Tinted formulas, like the ones from Almay and Neutrogena, are good enough to wear instead of lipstick - but they do wear off quickly, so be careful.

For your trip to the country club: An online friend of mine swears by Prada Shielding Balm, and I have to agree. Yes, the PRADA name is intimidating - and so is the accompanying price tag (which justifies the gimmicky packaging) - but it's one of those few balms that are buttery without being slippery, and stays put for hours. I've sampled the tinted versions at Neiman Marcus once; the balms look like melted chocolate and they perform just as well as the regular formula.

The Case for the Basics, #2: A Good Bra

Here's the second in a series of essays about “the basics” that I'll be covering this week. Read on...

I am not the first person to tell you how important it is to get a good bra. By now you've probably heard all the reasons why you should get yourself fitted properly for one, so if you haven't done so already I definitely recommend going to your nearest lingerie store (or at least the lingerie departments for Macy's or Neiman Marcus), armed with a tape measure and the judgement of a good friend, and get yourself measured by a professional bra fitter ASAP. (There are also independent bra fitters in Honolulu, too, but you may have to ask around; some of your better bridal shops may be able to make referrals.) It won't be an easy process, but once you get that out of the way you can at least get a measure of your peace of mind back.

Come to think of it, isn't peace of mind part of the reason why we ladies wear bras in the first place? It doesn't matter if you're big or small, practical or frilly, mature or youthful - there's always a need for our breasts to feel supported and protected, like they're part of us instead of just part of our bodies. Let's face it, the bra is one of the few garments in our underwear drawers that manages to uphold our decency and modesty while still retaining the physical essence of our womanhood. A properly fitted and styled bra, regardless of the price, is a measure of how we honor our bodies as part of our selves.

If you already have your proper bra measurements done, and you realize that you won't be able to get a decent bra in your size at any other store, you can always turn to the Internet. Unlike panties, the band size for your bra will remain consistent, regardless of which style you choose, and the returns are easier if you try it on and don't like the look.

Remember those scenes in the period movies or romance novels, where the heroine has to hold on to a pillar while her ladies-in-waiting push and strap her into a corset? Well, a good bra is supposed to do exactly that, but effortlessly and without the extra hands. As your mother will tell you, a good bra is meant to help you maintain good form and posture, especially for your back and shoulders. A good bra is supposed to work against gravity and not shimmy and droop under your breasts by the end of the day. Even if it is strapless.

If you're looking for a sports bra, it is definitely important that you find one that reduces the bouncing as much as possible. But that doesn't mean that you should find one that causes you to throw out your shoulder when you're putting it on - or taking it off, for that matter. If you're a D-cup and the tag on that sports bra specifically tells you that it's best for a B or C, don't even try to force your way into it. Same principle applies to the purchase of other bras as well. Think about it: What good is the sale price if you'll need the Jaws of Life to set your girls free?

If you're in the market for a maternity bra... well, I'm no expert (hello, childless singleton here), but I've met numerous mommies here in Honolulu who say that maternity and nursing bras make great baby shower gifts. Personally, even though I've probably attended my own fair share of bridal showers, I still don't think I'm at that point where I could guess someone's exact bra size, sight unseen, so I guess your mileage will have to vary on this one. But if you are a mom, do try to get fitted as often as you can, because otherwise you don't want to keep assuming that you'll stay the same size up there forever.

A good bra is meant to give you a clean line under your clothes. And by “clean line” I mean that you should be able to put a shirt or dress over it and still look like yourself, as opposed to making you look flabby or overstuffed. One of the reasons why I don't wear "minimizer" bras owes to the fact that taking a few inches off my ta-tas makes them look like man-boobs, especially when paired with the pot belly. Not. Sexy.

The bra should not pinch unnaturally and create unsightly bumps or rolls of flesh where they don't belong. The bra should also not squish your breasts or make them look like tumors, gourds, meat products, reptile eggs, props from the last Alien movie, or the naturally ripe fruits of certain tropical rainforest plants that look like they could fall from their branches and cause massive stinkage once they've been cracked open and stomped into the ground by clueless pedestrians.

Under no circumstances whatsoever should you ever allow your bra to show through your shirt. A tank with highly visible straps may be cute if you're young and fit, but on anyone else it looks cheap and desperate. The same goes for the visible outlines and everything else that your bra is supposed to prevent in the first place. Think about the first or last few times you've seen somebody with prominent nips or visible lace outlines poking through their shirt. Chances are, more often than not, it wasn't a pretty sight - unless you're a fetishist about this sort of thing, in which case I'll have to refer you to your nearest spiritual counselor.

(Which reminds me: Is it true what I've heard about guys who actually get turned on by visible panty lines? Because, ew. And they deserve to be pitied.)

The best bra should not only give you uplift, separation, and support, but should also distribute the flesh around your chest in such a way that puts meat on your ribcage and softens the edges around the clavicle. It is also very important for a bra to support your breasts in such a way that they consistently point straight forward and not in two different directions.

You know you've got a good one when your chest and cleavage looks healthy and full all over from the neck down. You know you've got a bad one when... heck, just open a copy of Vogue, Cosmo, or even Lucky, and tell me that those xylophone-chested models are wearing any kind of support other than duct tape or boob petals.

If you have to wash your bras, and handwashing them is not an option, I have two words for you: lingerie bag. Make sure to close the hooks before you put them in so they won't get tangled.

And, like everything in fashion, no matter where you get your Good Bra, it's always a good idea to get more than one in your size - assuming, of course, that you have factored the purchase into your budget. As the wise women in my family would say, it's not like anyone's going to care what you paid for it, because you're not going to wear it outside. And if you meet someone who does care that much about your undies, well... ahem. And ahem. And... oh, you get the idea. Point being, there's no point in going broke over underwear, that's all.

With the right bra, you can be more than confident about yourself - you can be confident about your sense of honor and decency.

But if you have to, disregard these rules at your own risk - and in the privacy of your bedroom, please - if you intend to "torture" Alejandro Sanz (or any hottie of your choice) with your improvised sexy dance moves.

The Case for the Basics, #1 - Mascara

Note: While the article below explains why I'm posting today, that doesn't mean that my “break” is over - on the contrary, some of the updates this week will continue to be very sporadic, and I'll be posting “Domesticity Fridays” on Thursday night because I will be off for the weekend. That said, I'm actually starting a series on essays about the things that I consider to be the “basics” in my own fashion and beauty wardrobe. I'm starting with mascara because I promised to write about this in my “makeup meltdown” story last Friday. Read on...

Monday morning turned out to be monumentally crazy for me, mostly because of all the assignments and projects that I needed to do - which inevitably involved writing letters to my profs about assigned readings that don't turn up where they're supposed to be, and highly advanced planning for school assignments that would probably never get turned in until the very last minute. On top of it all, I had forgotten to eat my breakfast, and by the time 12:30 rolled around I was already wide-eyed with hunger.

After finishing up my weekday brunch (club sandwich with fries and decaf coffee) I headed to Longs Drugs, where they had Cover Girl makeup for sale, and I purchased the Fantastic Lash Waterproof Mascara in very black (as per the recommendations in the June issue of Allure) so I could give it a test drive.

Truth be known, there are days when I just don't wear mascara, but when I do, it's always for those moments when my eyes do need to look awake. Usually this means I wear mascara on the run, when I don't have time for full eye makeup or even a once-over with the eyelash curler. This also means that I only put mascara on my upper lashes, for that youthful “I'm naturally perky this time of the day, I swear” look that I need most days. So it's important for me to have a mascara that gives a finished look in no time, without clumping or smudging from the get-go.

It's also equally important for me to have a mascara wand that won't poke me in the eye when I'm putting it on in the bathroom. That's part of the reason why I like mascaras with pointy-ended brushes, like the CG Fantastic Lash and Triple Mascara - the pointy ends let me reach the little lashes that point downward in the inner corners of my eye. If I get a mascara that doesn't have a brush I can work with, what I do is that I bend the brush at an angle from the wand - no more than 30 degrees from the base of the brush, or you might not be able to put it back in the tube. I've done this with a tube of Maybelline Full'n'Soft (another favorite, which also now comes with a curved brush) and I got a lot of mileage from both the brush and the formula; not only were my lashes as full and soft as advertised, but they also curled up nicely and left me looking refreshed even after a late-afternoon touch up.

Since I'm not much of a product snob to begin with when it comes to makeup, I don't like to spend too much on mascara, especially when you consider that I have to throw the stuff away after two to three months of use to avoid eye infections. (Trust me, I know - I've ended up with itchy red eyes after wearing mascara past the due date.) A reasonable price range for me would be anywhere over $5 but no more than $12 when it's not on sale - anything below $5 is bound to look runny in the tube (and therefore let me down once I'm wearing it), and anything over $12 has to do more for me than not run, smudge, or make me look like Marilyn Manson by the end of the day. My only exception so far to the rule is Rimmel's Extra Super Lash, which retails for less than $3 over here (and smudges quite a bit if you get it in regular formula) but has a good, tight brush that does an effective job of defining and volumizing. Which isn't to say that I'm not open to trying anything else outside of my given range, but again - I don't have that much time or money to burn, so it has to be worth the effort.

I admit that I do like the smoky-eye effect that happens when my mascara eventually runs or smudges at the end of the day, but what I really don't like is the emaciated-raccoon look that happens when it runs all over my eyes and I can't just wipe the rest of it off with a tissue. I've also seen women who intentionally smudge mascara around their eyes as a substitute for eyeshadow, which only makes them look like they've been attacked by tar-covered spiders.

As of this writing, the aforementioned Fantastic Lash has held up nicely - definitely waterproof and smudgeproof (in spite of a few stress-related crying jags), with no residue and no spidery clumps. I wouldn't say that I've found my Holy Grail yet - and what woman has? - but I think this will do quite nicely for the next few months.